Archive for the ‘Home Repairs’ Category

DESIGNING THE PERFECT KITCHEN

Sunday, September 5th, 2010

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Proper planning is a must in order to design and complete a full kitchen renovation.

Floorplans should be drawn showing entire floor that you are working on including any upper and lower floors.  We typically superimpose floors so we can ensure that all structural load points have been addressed.  Once complete we work extensively with clients to ensure that all of their wishes are met.  With the drawings we are easily able to let them know of any complications or restrictions prior to starting the project.  Choosing appliances and ordering is crucial to a successful kitchen at this stage.  Having the appliance model numbers allows us to design our clients kitchen around there appliance choices.   Choosing countertop style and material is important at this stage also due to the different thicknesses of materials.  Once the floorplan and clients wishes are addressed -a kitchen drawing will be completed with a virtual tour of their new kitchen.  Once approved these drawings are sent to the kitchen designers for drawing, sizing and costing.

Modifications are made to the kitchen layout including removal of walls, wiring and plumbing to the new locations while the cabinets are being constructed.  The detailed kitchen drawings are crucial to achieve the perfect kitchen as changing wiring, plumbing, etc after the kitchen arrives would be a major setback in the project.  All inspections are completed which allows for the installation of drywall.  Typically once the drywall is installed and finished we apply a primer coat of paint and one finished coat to the walls prior to cabinetry installation.  This is an important step.

Cabinetry is installed typically the day after the first finished coat of paint is complete.  It works out perfectly with the reconstruction, inspections, wiring, plumbing an drywall time versus cabinetry construction and delivery.  All cabinetry is installed per design with all plumbing and electrical falling into perfect position.  Templating of the countertops immediately follows cabinetry installation.  Between the time that templating of countertops is complete and they are installed is a perfect time to finish the painting, install cabinet mounted appliances and thoroughly clean the cabinets and drawers.  Typically 4 days later the countertop arrives and installation of the kitchen sink, dishwasher and cooktop is completed.  All final inspections are completed and a perfect kitchen awaits.

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Crawlspace Humidity (Knowledge/Approach/Correction)

Friday, December 18th, 2009
There are many companies that will push homeowners into encapsulating a crawlspace. Sometimes this is not necessary and always very costly. Normal wood dry stacked in a lumber yard is 10-14 percent moisture content when probed. This moisture content is necessary to keep the materials pliable and in the state to which they are intended. If moisture content is lowered then the materials experience dry rot. If the moisture levels are elevated this can produce wood rot also- but with side effects as well. When moisture content is greater than 14 percent and the humidity level surrounding is greater than 30 percent then this is the environment for mold growth. In a crawlspace, which is somewhat encapsulated in itself, humidity levels tend not to reach normal “outdoor” levels due to the crawlspace being an attached part of a conditioned home (HVAC). Some of the conditioned air does make its way into a crawlspace buffering the exterior elements or humidity. Crawlspace encapsulation was introduced into the home repair world in the year 2001. This is 2009. Many building professionals do not agree with this type of “correction” for many reasons. First- The practice has not been around long enough to evaluate effectiveness. Second- By encapsulating a crawlspace visibility of block walls, floor joists, piers and footings (not to mention utility lines) becomes impossible. The most cost effective way to determine if a “problem” really exists is to install a humidistat in the crawlspace and a led monitoring system in the home. Homeowners can monitor and keep tract of humidity levels during all exterior climates and conditions. One key point to remember for homeowners is the fact that corrections nor encapsulation needs to be performed now. If, while monitoring, it is determined that humidity level in a crawlspace is typically higher than desired- examine and understand why first. Is the crawlspace dirt height lower than the exterior grade of the home? Are water and sewer pipes not sealed around properly allowing storm water to enter crawlspace? Are there leaks in a sewer pipe, water supply line or condensation line allowing moisture into the crawlspace? Is there incorrect flashings at the foundation/siding transition? Are there proper weep holes in the brick 8” below finished floor elevation (brick/block foundation walls only)? Is natural ground water coming up through the crawlspace earth? Do you have adequate and properly applied vapor barrier? For homeowners- knowledge of a situation is extremely important. Is it best to write a check for $10,000 to encapsulate your crawlspace? We believe that it is better to identify whether a problem exists, locate the source of the problem, address the problem and keep monitoring. Hundreds of dollars is more cost effective than many thousands. If encapsulation of a crawlspace has or is being performed. Ask yourself whether the source has been corrected or are you having moisture hidden from visibility diverted or covered only to cause more damages to your home in the future. I think that most would agree that hundreds of dollars is the only approach to knowledge and piece of mind.
 
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Tile Shower Pans and Structural Concerns

Saturday, December 12th, 2009

Shower and shower pan construction is a typical concern for many.  We have received 13 home repair calls on this topic alone in the past month.  We have found that typically installers simply do not understand the installation practices.  This is a topic for homeowners to be concerned about.  The cause and effect if improper shower pans are shocking – especially the causes:

number 1 cause of shower pan failure :   improper wrapping of membrane over 3 1/2″ entrance curb

number 2 cause  :  improper bench seat installation

number 3 cause  :  improperly placed fasteners at pan perimeter (must be up 8″)

number 4 cause :  torn/punctured pan during tile/shower door installation

number 5 cause : clogging secondary drain at mud pan level (there is one in every shower pan drain system)

The proper procedure (as per NC and International Codes and Inspectors) :

Remove old shower pan if applicable (If new construction skip to #5 below)

1.  Remove tiles and dur-a-rock 12″ up from tile shower floor including curbing tile and 12″ above curbing tile (existing pan replacement)

2.  Remove shower floor tile, mud base and membrane to expose subfloor

3.  If subfloor is damaged it must be removed and replaced with 3/4″ cdx or treated plywood.  If not damaged then proceed to #4

4.  Install additional layer of 1/2″ or 3/4″ plywood on top of existing fastening with screws and adhesive to make shower floor rigid.  (This is a common practice for installers to simply leave 1 layer but we prefer 2 layers for obvious reasons)

5.  Install 2×4 blocking between studs on walls on edge to create a mini wall to allow control of mud pan and fastening of membrane

6.  use 2′ or 4′ level from adjustable drain top to walls in every direction.  Mark on walls the amount of slope desired (minimum 1″ of fall per 12″ of travel towards the drain: typical)

7.  Mark walls/blocking where your slope is to begin.

8.  Mix shower floor mud to consistency as directed on bags.  Pour mud pan directly onto shower floor plywood.

9.  Pull floor mud from drain towards marks on wall to achieve your desired slope.  Make sure that corners are cut in to accept both side angles and forms a valley type form.  This preslope does not need to be perfect as there are a few steps before prep is complete.

10.  After 24 hrs dry time have licensed plumbing contractor, familiar with shower pan installation, install the membrane pan.  You will notice that the membrane runs up walls 10″ around perimeter with corners overlapped and glued(not cut).  The membrane should run up and over the complete curbing system.  Patches need to be installed at curbing to wall transitions.  Ensure that membrane wraps around the framed opening above the curb which ties into shower walls and overlaps curb ends by a minimum of 6″ overlap each direction.  These overlaps must be glued using glue by the same manufacturer as the membrane.

11.  Fasten membrane 8″ up from pan(membrane) base on walls, around the framing openings on the outside of the shower and at the curb on the opposite side of the shower.  Use galvanized roofing nails to secure or manufacturer recommended fasteners.

12.  If replacing an existing shower pan, install dur-a-rock on walls and thinset joints using thinset and mesh tape.  If new shower then proceed to #13.

13.  Install drain plug and fill membrane shower floor with water to test for any possible leaks.  Leave shower floor membrane filled with water and, very important, CALL FOR ROUGH IN INSPECTION FOR SHOWER PAN.

14.  Remove water from pan after inspection and install the adjustable drain system.

15.  Install dissolving tissue paper or small pebbles around secondary drain system (weep holes) to avoid clogging.  This is extremely important as if you clog the secondary drain water will accumulate under the tile and either cause tiles to lift, allow mildew growth under tile and cause the grout in shower floor tile to lift continuously.

16.  Install additional floor mud coating over pan, which is now presloped,  to a thinner layer to parallel the pre slope.  Allow 24 hrs of dry time.

17.  Paint coating of “Red Guard” over entire shower pan mud coating and up walls to height of top of visible dur-a-rock (when replacing existing shower pan).  In new construction of shower coat all- walls, mud pan, curb, etc.

18.  Install shower floor tile and curbing tile.  Shower floor tile should be small enough to accept sloping and valleys.  Most manufacturers recommend 2″ tile.  In larger showers larger tiles can be used.

19.  Install wall tile which will be installed so that the bottom of the tile will cover the edge of the cut floor tile.  This will allow proper water channeling towards the drain.  In tile work always remember that it is best to mark on the walls and floor to ensure a successful outcome and overlapping tiles to avoid cut tile end visibility is common practice.  This will avoid sharp edges and a much better looking end result.

20.  Adjust the adjustable drain so the flat drain top is at the same height as the finished floor tile.  Grout shower floor and wall tile.  Remember to allow the tile to set 24 hours before any pressure or grouting is permitted.

21.  Install clear sealant to all 90 degree tile joints to allow for a long term beautiful project.  ie: wall to floor transition and wall to wall corners.

Note: Whenever installing a shower door it is always recommended to never install screws at base/threshold.  Instead use a silicone or urethane sealant.  Install bead of sealant, set threshold then smooth sealant for a cosmetically appealing caulk line.  The sides should be installed with screws.  Remember when drilling through the tile for the door side pieces(tracks) to fill drilled holes with sealant prior to installation so the holes will be sealed and compressed with sealant when the track is installed.

The effects of an improperly installed tile shower -pan(membrane), curbing, shower door, and adjustable drain system are endless.  They range from mold buildup and water accumulation which travel, over time, past the shower envelope to joist damage, girder damage, subfloor damage, shower framing damage and moisture into a crawlspace.  The most effective ways to prevent these from occurring are to have a qualified company evaluate or perform the tile shower installation and to obtain a plumbing permit which will consist of 2 inspections:  a plumbing rough in shower pan inspection and then a final plumbing inspection once all items listed above are complete.

We hope that this topic is helpful to homeowners and other home maintenance and home repair contractors and will alleviate many sleepless nights and many unnecessary dollars spent.

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Important things to remember when building a home

Friday, December 11th, 2009

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Planning of each stage in the beginning is a very important. Planning of the windows and doors, the electrical, the HVAC, the kitchen layout and virtually everything. Once the structure has been framed, sheathed and roofed, it is best to meet with the electrician, plumber, mechanical contractor and the kitchen and bath designer. The kitchen and bath designer will draw on the walls and floors the layouts of the kitchen and bathrooms including pipe centers, wiring locations and cabinets. The electrician will mark on the floor and studs the locations of switches, outlets and lighting fixtures. The plumber will mark on the walls and floors where water lines will enter the floor system, toilet locations, tub locations and drain line locations. The mechanical contractor will mark on the walls and floors where their thermostats will go, where their registers (vents ) will be placed and their return locations. Return locations are for the intake air of the home to duct to the air handler. This requires some thought as the area needed is generally large.

With all trades having marked the locations of their runs it will allow you to see any future complications that may arise and alleviate any complications before they become costly to remedy. In practicing these few simple suggestions there is no reason that the interior of your home will be a sure success. Some get very carried away and schedule subcontractors immediately to “just do it” and generally will result in some complication or another. Time, efficiency and the overall Product are the most important things when efficiently building a home. Take a day- breathe and just do it right.

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