Posts Tagged ‘contractor’

Crawlspace Humidity (Knowledge/Approach/Correction)

Friday, December 18th, 2009
There are many companies that will push homeowners into encapsulating a crawlspace. Sometimes this is not necessary and always very costly. Normal wood dry stacked in a lumber yard is 10-14 percent moisture content when probed. This moisture content is necessary to keep the materials pliable and in the state to which they are intended. If moisture content is lowered then the materials experience dry rot. If the moisture levels are elevated this can produce wood rot also- but with side effects as well. When moisture content is greater than 14 percent and the humidity level surrounding is greater than 30 percent then this is the environment for mold growth. In a crawlspace, which is somewhat encapsulated in itself, humidity levels tend not to reach normal “outdoor” levels due to the crawlspace being an attached part of a conditioned home (HVAC). Some of the conditioned air does make its way into a crawlspace buffering the exterior elements or humidity. Crawlspace encapsulation was introduced into the home repair world in the year 2001. This is 2009. Many building professionals do not agree with this type of “correction” for many reasons. First- The practice has not been around long enough to evaluate effectiveness. Second- By encapsulating a crawlspace visibility of block walls, floor joists, piers and footings (not to mention utility lines) becomes impossible. The most cost effective way to determine if a “problem” really exists is to install a humidistat in the crawlspace and a led monitoring system in the home. Homeowners can monitor and keep tract of humidity levels during all exterior climates and conditions. One key point to remember for homeowners is the fact that corrections nor encapsulation needs to be performed now. If, while monitoring, it is determined that humidity level in a crawlspace is typically higher than desired- examine and understand why first. Is the crawlspace dirt height lower than the exterior grade of the home? Are water and sewer pipes not sealed around properly allowing storm water to enter crawlspace? Are there leaks in a sewer pipe, water supply line or condensation line allowing moisture into the crawlspace? Is there incorrect flashings at the foundation/siding transition? Are there proper weep holes in the brick 8” below finished floor elevation (brick/block foundation walls only)? Is natural ground water coming up through the crawlspace earth? Do you have adequate and properly applied vapor barrier? For homeowners- knowledge of a situation is extremely important. Is it best to write a check for $10,000 to encapsulate your crawlspace? We believe that it is better to identify whether a problem exists, locate the source of the problem, address the problem and keep monitoring. Hundreds of dollars is more cost effective than many thousands. If encapsulation of a crawlspace has or is being performed. Ask yourself whether the source has been corrected or are you having moisture hidden from visibility diverted or covered only to cause more damages to your home in the future. I think that most would agree that hundreds of dollars is the only approach to knowledge and piece of mind.
 
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Important things to remember when building a home

Friday, December 11th, 2009

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Planning of each stage in the beginning is a very important. Planning of the windows and doors, the electrical, the HVAC, the kitchen layout and virtually everything. Once the structure has been framed, sheathed and roofed, it is best to meet with the electrician, plumber, mechanical contractor and the kitchen and bath designer. The kitchen and bath designer will draw on the walls and floors the layouts of the kitchen and bathrooms including pipe centers, wiring locations and cabinets. The electrician will mark on the floor and studs the locations of switches, outlets and lighting fixtures. The plumber will mark on the walls and floors where water lines will enter the floor system, toilet locations, tub locations and drain line locations. The mechanical contractor will mark on the walls and floors where their thermostats will go, where their registers (vents ) will be placed and their return locations. Return locations are for the intake air of the home to duct to the air handler. This requires some thought as the area needed is generally large.

With all trades having marked the locations of their runs it will allow you to see any future complications that may arise and alleviate any complications before they become costly to remedy. In practicing these few simple suggestions there is no reason that the interior of your home will be a sure success. Some get very carried away and schedule subcontractors immediately to “just do it” and generally will result in some complication or another. Time, efficiency and the overall Product are the most important things when efficiently building a home. Take a day- breathe and just do it right.